Why the Lemurs Had to Wait
One of the things I’ve come to appreciate about retirement is the freedom to pursue some of the things that have been sitting on the wish list for years. They weren’t necessarily sitting there because we couldn’t do them before, but because finding the time, making the arrangements and giving them the attention they deserve isn’t always easy when work gets in the way.
Of course, having the time doesn’t necessarily mean everything goes according to plan. Sometimes ambitions have to wait, plans change and the reality doesn’t quite match the expectations.
Madagascar was a pretty good example of all three……
Sometimes you really have to wonder if life is trying to tell you something.
Madagascar was supposed to be last year’s adventure– a visit to a long dreamed of destination –but 3 days prior to departure political unrest put paid to our plans. We went to the Maldives instead, which was hardly a hardship, but Madagascar remained unfinished business.
Twelve months later, we tried again. This time, the obstacle was less geopolitical and more administrative: our passports went missing during a stop at Dubai airport and so our connecting flight left without us. And that’s when I started to wonder whether we’d ever get there!
Eventually, the passports were found, the journey resumed, and we arrived in Antananarivo (just a day late and a little poorer).
At last! I was ready for lemurs, baobabs, chameleons and geckos (and penguins too, if you believe the film). After all the delays, I just had my fingers crossed that Madagascar was going to live up to our expectations.
It not only lived up to but surpassed our expectations on the wildlife front in spectacular style.
But the surprise was how much more there was to the experience — and how some of the moments that stayed with me had very little to do with wildlife.
Life is full of surprises!
A country of contrasts
Our 15-day journey took us from Antananarivo east to Andasibe National Park, back to the capital, and then south through the highlands towards the drier landscapes of the south-west coast. On the map, the route looked fairly straightforward. On the road, with potholes, slow traffic and long stretches between stops, distances had a habit of expanding and nothing was as easy as it once seemed. And, even with all of the windows open in the coach, the temperature climbed.
We all have a subconscious picture of people and places, and these are often quite far from the truth. In my mind’s eye, Madagascar would be covered from top to toe in tropical jungle, with lemurs everywhere.
The reality was a little different. The landscape was far more varied: rainforest, highland towns, rice paddies – stretching right into the centre of the capital city, sandstone formations, dry scrub and, eventually, the coast. The island just kept changing.
And the wildlife? It was extraordinary. We saw lots of different lemurs, along with chameleons, geckos, frogs, snakes and other creatures that seemed to have been designed by someone who’d been given an extensive colour palette to choose from.
The ring-tailed lemurs were every bit as photogenic as promised. But surprisingly they weren’t my favourites.
That accolade goes to a sportive lemur, peering out from a tree at Zombitse-Vohibasia, with the sleepy, slightly grumpy expression of someone who had been disturbed halfway through a good nap. (As it’s nocturnal, I’m pretty sure that the description is fairly accurate.)
I’d imagined the wildlife would be the headline act, and it certainly earned top billing. But Madagascar isn’t just a collection of national parks and memorable animals. What struck me was that it’s also a country full of colour and vitality, with lots of people going about their everyday lives without the use of modern machinery.
THE EVERYDAY SCENES THAT STAYED WITH ME
I still can’t get over the fact that so much of Malagasy daily life revolves around manual labour. People use wooden shovels and zebu cattle-powered ploughs to work the rice paddies. Bricks are made and fired beside the road. Elsewhere, people break large stones into aggregate using hammers.
Zebu carts and traditional canoes aren’t there for show; they are a part of everyday life.
We were offered the chance to visit a traditional village, to see what living conditions in a rural setting were really like. These things can be a bit voyeuristic, if you aren’t careful, but here the villages turned out in force, as curious about us as we were about them.
They were keen to show us their well, which made me smile. (I can only imagine the reaction I’d get if I offered to show my kitchen taps to guests at home.)
What sticks in my memory most, though, are some much smaller interactions during the journey. A farmer stood on a far hillside, waving as we passed. A schoolgirl grinning as she practised her English with me. Laughing out loud with a street vendor as we bartered for a t-shirt.
These weren’t grand gestures, and hardly the stuff of dramatic photographs. But it just felt natural – simply human beings interacting. Of course, I have no way of knowing what the other people felt but it felt genuine to me.
THE MOMENTS I CAN STILL HEAR AND SEE
Yes, there were the lemurs but there are some specific things that have stayed with me:
The calls of the Indri lemurs ringing through the trees which were impossible to ignore. They made you stop and listen.
The ancient baobabs made you look up — and then keep looking.
And the colourful frogs, snakes and geckos were often so well hidden that even after a guide had pointed one out, it could take a while to spot it.
Then there was that sportive lemur, peering out with its sleepy face. It may not have been the biggest or most spectacular animal we saw, but it has become one of my favourite memories.
There were also some human elements. One evening, we watched the sun go down from a rocky outcrop while a group of local people sang and danced. The landscape was beautiful, but the people made the moment. It was another reminder that the things you remember about a place aren’t always the things you expected to remember.
AN ADVENTURE THAT MADE US WORK FOR IT
This wasn’t a trip of blue skies, leisurely strolls and a glass of wine waiting at the end of every day (although there was plenty of sunshine and the odd beer may have made an appearance).
In some cases, the roads were more like potholes connected with bits of tarmac; the rain forests lived up to their name; and the paths were often muddy, uneven or hot. Early starts were a necessity if we wanted to see wildlife while it was active, whilst down time was at a premium.
The sandstone scenery in Isalo National Park reminded me of parts of the American West. When we went for a walk there the heat was more intense and the terrain more challenging than we’d expected. It didn’t help that we were recovering from a bug. Whatever the cause, Helen and I decided to turn back rather than push on simply to say we’d completed it.
On a long-awaited trip, it’s tempting to think you ought to do everything. You’ve come all this way and you don’t want to miss out. But turning back was the right thing to do. We still experienced the landscape, and we certainly didn’t have anything to prove to the mountain, the guide or each other.
Madagascar can be physically demanding and therefore you need to be realistic about the physical demands if you want to explore places like this. But adventure can be rewarding even if you have to endure some discomfort — and knowing when to turn back is also part of the experience.
HAVING TIME TO ENJOY THE MOMENT
Perhaps the most surprising part of the trip was not a particular animal or landscape. It was how relaxed I became about the things that might once have irritated me: delays, long journeys and plans changing.
One morning at breakfast, I suddenly realised that I was happy to sit at the table and enjoy the conversation rather than itching to get going in search of the next sight. I wasn’t clock-watching or worrying that we were missing something important. I was enjoying the moment — and that was enough.
That may sound like a small thing, but it felt significant to me. I’d spent years fitting life around work, deadlines and the next thing that needed doing. I’d also worked from home for 25 years, so retirement didn’t suddenly transform my everyday domestic life. Travel, however, has changed. We take longer holidays, and there’s no backlog of work, or ‘email mountain’, waiting for me when I return. I don’t have to spend the last days of a trip mentally preparing for my first day back at the office.
Maybe the extra time has made me more patient. Maybe I’m simply getting better at noticing the bits of a journey that don’t appear on the itinerary. I can’t say that retirement is responsible for every change, but I did come home thinking that the luxury of having more time isn’t necessarily about doing more. Sometimes it’s about being able to give a moment the attention it deserves. Or, as one of our friends describes it, taking time to ‘pet the whale’ (allowing yourself to become immersed in the moment rather than trying to capture it or rationalise it.)
I went to Madagascar expecting the wildlife to be the story. And to a large extent that was true — but the small, unplanned human moments helped make the adventure that much more personal. They didn’t need to lead anywhere, cost anything or become a lasting friendship. They were just small moments to treasure.
MADAGASCAR IN PICTURES
There is so much to see in Madagascar that choosing just a few photographs, to offer you a flavour of the adventure, is difficult. But here is a small selection:
(I will add a link to a larger selection of images once I’ve found the time to review them – that’s the problem with retirement – there is just so little time! LOL).
A FEW PRACTICAL LESSONS FROM THIS TRIP
An adventure jacket with plenty of pockets proved useful. Mine offered protection from both insects and the sun, added an extra layer when I needed one and could be rolled into a small bundle to use as a cushion or a pad for my camera.
I bought an inexpensive rain cover for my camera bag. It helped keep out rain and much of the dust, and made my camera less conspicuous. As with any destination, avoid drawing unnecessary attention to valuables.
Cash needs a little thought, too, especially as local currency can’t be obtained until you reach Madagascar.
We found larger euro or US dollar notes useful for a better exchange rate and smaller notes handy for tips.
Don’t assume that every hotel or business will accept foreign currency or cards.
Pack to cover all eventualities – we experienced everything from cooler conditions to heat, rain, mud and long days (although final packing lists will obviously be itinerary dependent). Changing for dinner wasn’t a thing though – we were often too tired or busy to change for dinner – so don’t worry too much about smarter clothing.
And locally made T-shirts are great value and can supplement your packing.
I also used an AI tool to help organise some itinerary details — accommodation, things to see or buy, and local food and drink to try. It saved some time, although it didn’t fill in everything I’d asked for, even when I gave it a format. So, it’s a useful assistant but not an infallible travel organiser.
MADAGASCAR: YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED
Is Madagascar worth visiting?
In our opinion, absolutely. The wildlife and landscapes were memorable, but so were the everyday scenes and the people we met. It is not necessarily an easy destination, and the long road journeys can be tiring. But if you are looking for somewhere that feels different from the familiar, and you are prepared to accept a little discomfort along the way, it can be hugely rewarding.
How physically demanding is a trip to Madagascar?
It depends on the itinerary. Expect early starts, uneven or muddy trails, heat and lengthy, uncomfortable drives in some areas. You don’t have to tackle every walk to enjoy the country, but you need to make a realistic assessment of your mobility and stamina.
What wildlife can you expect to see?
Lemurs are obviously the main attraction but we also saw chameleons, geckos, snakes and colourful frogs. What you see depends on the regions visited, the season, your guides and a bit of luck. It is wildlife after all – no one seems to have sent the lemurs a memo about appearances and timings yet!
(Unfortunately, there are NO penguins!)
Would you recommend Madagascar to retired travellers?
It depends on your fitness, mobility and tolerance for a little discomfort.
There were people in our party in their 80s but they were fit and active. And we were all happy to endure the early mornings, lengthy travel days, and challenging walks to see the wildlife. But it depends on what you want and what you are capable of doing.
Was Madagascar worth the wait?
Madagascar wasn’t entirely what I imagined. The wildlife delivered in a big way, but the country was more varied than I’d expected, and some of the most memorable parts of the trip were the ones I couldn’t have planned or foreseen.
Am I glad we persevered after the cancelled trip and the passport drama? Yes. I came home with the photographs I’d hoped for, memories of extraordinary wildlife, and a collection of small encounters that still make me smile.
Perhaps that’s the thing about a long-awaited adventure: you set off looking for one thing and find yourself bringing home much more. For me, Madagascar was a reminder that the best parts of a journey aren’t always the ones you’ve highlighted on the itinerary. Sometimes they’re the moments when you stop trying to get to the next thing and discover that, just for now, you’re exactly where you need to be.
Have you visited Madagascar? If so, what were your favourite places and experiences?
Or is there something that you didn’t do which makes you want to return?
Please share your thoughts in the comments or email me at:
rookieretiree@btinternet.com
FUTURE BLOG CONTENT
In next month’s blog, I’m going to reflect on what Year 2 of retirement has taught me.
If you’ve missed earlier posts, or want to revisit one, browse the full series on the Contents Page. If you’re new to Rookie Retiree, start with the Welcome Page.
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Regards
Phil Marsh is the creator of Rookie Retiree, exploring life after work — the choices, challenges and possibilities that come with the luxury of choice.
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